Mt. Ama Dablam

Trip Highlights

• Climb one of the sought-after peaks in the Himalayas, Mt. Ama Dablam
• Hone your technical climbing skills by following the complex climbing route
• Spend nights in beautiful Sherpa villages like Lukla, Phakding, Namche Bazaar, and Tengboche on the way to Mt. Ama Dablam Base Camp
• Witness breathtaking mountain panoramas and glacier views
• Come across the daily lifestyle of the mountain people while trekking and visit some ancient monasteries
• Supported by a team of very skilled and seasoned mountaineers

Trip Overview

Mount Ama Dablam stands at 6,812 meters (22,349 ft). It is located in the eastern Himalayan range of Nepal, near Mt. Everest. Mt. Ama Dablam is known as one of the most technically challenging mountains in the Himalayas to climb. Even seasoned climbers considered climbing Mt. Ama Dablam a very difficult feat. The route to the summit involves complex technical rocks and ice climbing.

With its distinctive pyramid shape and snow-covered summit, Mt. Ama Dablam is a sight to behold. Known as the Matterhorn of the Himalayas, Mount Ama Dablam's soaring height and stunning beauty have made it a highly sought-after peak. The overall Ama Dablam expedition provides an extraordinary and life-changing mountaineering experience in Nepal.

How do we climb Mount Ama Dablam?

Mount Ama Dablam climbing is divided into two phases- trekking and climbing.

Trekking Phase:

The Ama Dablam expedition starts with a short flight to Lukla, which is situated at 2,840 meters (9,317 ft). Lukla is the gateway of the Everest region. From here, you will trek through beautiful Sherpa villages, crossing numerous suspension bridges over the Dudh Koshi River. Landscapes and mountain views are incredible throughout the trek.

You will trek to Namche Bazaar (3,440 m/11,286 ft), spending a night in Phakding village (2,610 m/8,563 ft). Namche Bazaar is another famous attraction on this route. It is the biggest Sherpa settlement area where local markets take place and is known as one of the ancient salt trading centers.

The trail then ascends to Tengboche village (3,860 m/12,664 ft), where you will visit the biggest monastery in the Khumbu region, Tengboche monastery, and ascend to Pangboche village (3,985 m/13,074 ft). From Pangboche, the route turns to the Ama Dablam Base Camp (4,570/14,993ft). You will stay overnight in guesthouses during trekking.

Climbing Phase:

The route to the base camp of Mt. Ama Dablam is rugged and steep. Upon reaching the Ama Dablam Base Camp, you will be welcomed by our staff, and from here onwards, the real adventure begins. At the base camp, you will spend 10 to 15 days doing acclimatization rotations. Mt. Ama Dablam has three different camps where you spend your nights above base camp.

"Your team leader will also organize pre-climbing training sessions during which you will polish your climbing skills and learn some basic climbing vocabulary and how to use climbing gear."

Camp I is situated at 5,780 meters (18,963 ft). First, you will climb to Camp I, return to the base camp, and rest. This is your first rotation. The climbing route to Camp I follows the southwest ridge and takes around 4-5 hours to reach. On the way, you will navigate via large rocks and climb an easy fourth-class piece without any fixed ropes. As there is not much space to pitch a tent at Camp I, sharing tents is necessary.

For the next rotation, you will climb to Camp II, which is located at 5,950 meters (19,521 ft). It takes around 3 hours to reach Camp II from Camp I. From the Ama Dablam Base Camp, you will climb to Camp I, spend a night here, and proceed to Camp II the next day. The route from Camp I to Camp II is the most technical segment.

You will climb over a fourth-class level stone ridge. The route is open, with massive drop-offs on both sides. Towards the end of the ridge, you will climb the famous Yellow Tower, which is six meters tall. It is considered French fourth class, British Severe, and North American YDS 5.5. After reaching Camp II, you will return to the base camp. Take a full rest, which will get you ready for the final push.

For the final push, you will begin climbing from the Ama Dablam Base Camp to Camp I and stay overnight here. The following day, climb to Camp II and stay overnight here. On day three, physically fit climbers do the summit push and return to Camp II or Camp I to spend the night. Whereas average climbers ascend to Camp III, spend the night there, and then push to the summit the next day and return to Camp II or Camp I.

While climbing from Camp II to Camp III, you will come across mixed ice and snow terrain. We will use fixed ropes along the entire way. The surrounding mountain views are excellent. You will cross the infamous Mushroom Ridge at 6,150 meters (20,177 ft) and ascend to Camp III, situated at 6,200 meters (20,341 ft). It takes around 2 hours to reach Camp III from Camp II.

From Camp III to the summit (6,812 m/22,349ft) involves demanding slopes of snow-ice climbing at a 40-degree + angle. Just before reaching the summit, you will cross a fluted snowfield (30-50 degrees). After the summit push, you will return to the base camp. Our team will be all ready to welcome you with a hot drink followed by a celebration dinner.

You will then trek back to Lukla, retracing the path via Namche Bazaar and Phakding village and fly back to Kathmandu.

*Note: Our support crew will set up all the tents and take care of your meals. You will be all focused on acclimatizing, climbing, and resting.